9 DAYS VOLCANOES
9 Days Pichincha – Iliniza North- Cayambe & Chimborazo Climbing- Detailed Itinerary

We take our first acclimatization ascent on the 4.794m (15.724ft) peak of the active volcano Guagua Pichincha. Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano.

Our primary goal here is to help each team member to start testing his or her response to higher elevation, and to give our bodies a chance to get used to altitude, while enjoying the many photographic opportunities. Afternoon drive back to Quito. Overnight in Quito. Hostal Casa Helbling (BL)

After breakfast, we make a mid-morning departure from Quito to the Ilinizas parking lot. We’ll leave Quito, going south on the Pan-Americana Highway, where we cross a rich green and fertile valley, commonly referred to as «The Valley of the Volcanoes».

After an hour and a half, we’ll arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgen. From here it is a 3 hours hike up to the refuge with our full back pack on. The refuge is located at 4,600m (15,092ft). We’ll have dinner and sleep in the refuge. (B/BL./D)

We’ll get up early in the morning at 5:00 A.M. for breakfast and depart for our summit attempt on Iliniza Norte. This peak is normally a fairly straight forward climb that sometimes requires acclimatization days. The trail on the mountain is rocky, almost difficult to find this way. If the weather conditions are bad and cloudy, it’s very easy to lose your bearings.

On one part of the route we will use a fixed rope to pass or negotiate «Death Pass.» After this pass we’ll reach the summit. The average time to the summit is 3 hours. Here we stop for pictures and lunch, then descend for an hour and a half to reach the refuge, resting before going down to the parking lot.

Our private car (4×4 transportation) will take us to a hotel near Cotopaxi, in the Cotopaxi National Park for a very restful night. Back to Quito. Hostal Casa helbling (B/BL)

From Quito we drive North direction for the Panamericana high way, we pass same important villages like EL QUINCHE the very catholic town from Ecuador, were is the most important church on this region of the Andes. We have the opportunity to visit the (QUITSATO)means(THE ECUATORIAL LINE IS NOT ONLY AN IMGINARY LINE, IT’S MUCH MORE THAN THIS; IT’S IS A PROFOUND SENCE OF BEING) we stop here for 1h to visit this very important information and interesting site. After this explanation we continue drive for 15 minute and arrive at the Cayambe village were we can have typical lunch from the people of this City.

After lunch we need to drive for 1h30 more minutes drive, we can reach the Cayambe volcano and refuge by 3-4 pm. Arrive here at (4700m / 15,416ft) Located northeast of Quito on the eastern ridge of the Andes, Cayambe is Ecuador’s third highest peak and stands at 5799m (18,991ft.) and his summit is just 3km north of the Equate our Line. The glacier of this mountain is large and among the most active of all equatorial ice flows, and its varied glacial terrain here provides an excellent training skills ground and a rewarding to summit climb. Overnight at the hut. (B/BL/D)

Alexander Von Humboldt after his visit to Ecuador wrote about this volcano: «This mountain can be considered one of the monuments with which nature has made a big difference on Earth.» (The world Quitsato is from the Tsafiqui language of the Scachilas people from the Ecuadorian coast. Quitsato means Middle and TO means world – Quitsato therefore means Middle of the world.

Quitsato is the first Ecuadorian integral progect wich is developing extensive work concerning the study ans has put value to the concept of the Equatorila line, the fundamental base of the culture identity of the Ecuadorian. Quitsato original in the equinctial Andes, specifically on the equinoctial line (the great on the celestial aphere midway qetween the celestial poles) and the archeological culture patrimony.

We attemp not only to learn about the existences and funcionality of these archaeological sites with the application of satellite technilogy. But also to make them know thrugh a continual work of cultural diffusion. Protection and safeguarding of the cultural heritage)

Wake up at 7 am for breakfast. We continue adjusting to altitude acclimatization. We go on the glacier at 8h30 AM. And engage in the moderate glacier section a good activity. Where well be familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques, equipment work for climbing.

Our guide get to you on a glacier skills all of techniques necessary for climbing the high peaks like Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and others mountains to. We’ll be beginning to learn with ice-axe and cramponds using well handling, hike glacier travel snow, four piont climbing using, cross over steps, three O’klok techniques and much more skills to safety procediures you need to now for climbing!! and practice rope-handling treverses with the team over the glacier, all the general procedures for highst peak mountains.

After 6 hours training we are back to refuge for delicious lunch and resting afternoon, Of course we Prepare a the teams for a midnight departure for Cayambe day summit. Early dinner and early to bed usually by 6:30 P.M. Refuge. (B/BL/D)

We leave the refuge at 1:00 A.M. and climb with headlamps for the first four hours. We have an easy glacier climb to a saddle and then continue onto steeper and exciting grounds. We’ll traverse around large crevasses and pass some spectacular seracs.

Climb 40 degree slopes with occasional short steeper sections. 200mt velow to the summit we willcloimbing over 60 degree for two peach of rope then the final part we hiking up for 1 more houra to reach the Cayambe summitm we reached at about 9-10.A.M. You will have a view of photogenic lines and spectacular mountains.

If the weather dondition is nice;-) short rest and return down for 3-4 to the refuge around 2:00 P.M. short rest and then we can drive down to Cayambe City and continue drive back to Quito. Hostal Casa Helbling (B/BL)

oday we can move around 9am from Quito to Chimborazo, we can drive for the panamerican high way, we can pass Latacunga City, after Ambato City. We go by car and use 5 hours just drive to reach the first refuges at 4800m. But we can stop for lunch and other thinks to do! Arrive in the refuges around 3-4pm at lower carrel refuges. Or in our own tents. (B/BL/D)

NOTE: Whereas in the chimborazo changes its geography much by weather conditions and erosion with its glaciers. I beg to report that since 2015 this year and decided to organize this ascent with an altitude camp, the route is called (Stubel Galcier) camp is at 5100m high. In the Normal route to the castle, if there is no snow becomes very dangerous rockfall since the road is very steep and thawed up to 560om tall, to safety of all guests that come with EAI. I take the decision to do this variant if the conditions are not good for climbing the normal route. There is an extra cost of $ 100 per person, this is to cover the expenses of the porters who carry all camping equipment, food, water and more utensils of the night you will sleep in more height altitude. This money you can pay if the service is used. If it is not used and climb for the normal route DO NOT have to pay for this item.

We can decide to hiking up with all the camping gear and climbing gear to at the high camp on the Stubel Glacier to set up the tents and preparing all for the big day for Chimborazo. Camping tents (B/BL/D

Chimborazo, with 5 summits, is Ecuador’s highest mountain and one massive volcano! We get up at midnight for breakfast and an equipment check-up, leaving the hut at 1:00 A.M.

We move immediately to the huge glacier on Chimborazo’s southwest face, where we first traverse moderately angled ice slopes, climbing through a series of icefalls and up the steep ice ramps, simultaneously on moderate grounds belaying up the steep pitches. Our team will rope together in order to cross crevasses and finally make it to the summit. This is the highest point of the Andes, and from here we have a magnificent view of the emerging volcanoes that form the eastern and western Cordillera. The volcanoes seem to emerge from the clouds below our feet.

Chimborazo summit is at 6,310m (20,697ft). Our approximate climbing time is 8-9 hours and we’ll return to the refuge around noon. We’ll have lunch and return to Quito, arriving at the hotel in Quito at 8:00 P.M. We’ll stay overnight in Quito or on the way you have to go after climbing. (B/BL) No hotel

EXPEDITION RECOMMENDATIONS

» Accommodation in Quito: 3 nights
» Accommodation during the climbing trip: Refuges and 2 nights in Haciendas
» Refuge Fees
» Entrance fee to Cotopaxi National Park
» Private transport
» Bilingual Certified Mountain guides (ASEGUIM MEMBERS ONLY)
» Technical climbing gears

» International flights
» Single supplement room $.210,00
» Plastic Boots, crampons, Ice-Axe, harness-carabinner, helmet.
» Insurance
» Meals which are not included in the program
» Personal climbing gear
» Tips

The client is responsible for additional expenses incurred due to changes/variations in the above itinerary (food, gas, hotels, guide, etc…)
LISTE l’équipement personnel (de base nécessaire pour ce voyage):

Toisons thermiques, Balaclava ou bouchon en polypropylène, 3 paires de laine ou de chaussettes synthétiques, phares, lunettes ou lunettes de soleil Glacier, sac noir est ok, Dormir (15-20 digression C), sac à dos 55L. Trekking, bottes, bâtons de ski, 3 paires doublures, 2 paires longs sous-vêtements pour les retards, 2 paires de sous-vêtements pour le bras, la poitrine et le dos, veste de ver, doudoune, Gore-Tex parka, un pantalon de ver, un pantalon en Gore-Tex ou bavette, 2 doublures paire de gants. 1 Paire de gants ou mitaines lumière intérieure

» Breakfast (B)
» Box Lunch (BL)
» Dinner (D)

» I hope you understand!.

» (NOT INCLUDED.)

» BASIC EQUIPMENT LIST (minimum required for this trip):                                                    


GoreTex park jacket, Thermals Fleece, 1 Pair of light inner gloves, Balaclava, cap, Wool or synthetic socks, Headlamp, Glacier glasses or dark sunglasses, Sleeping bag (20-30 degress Fahrenheit), Backpack, 3 pair outer socks, long underwear, worm jacket, worm pants, Gore-Tex pants or bib, pair glove liners or Mitons.


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